Turkey remains full of surprises

I’ve not written on here for some time – but during that entire time I’ve remained in Turkey, spending much of my time wildcamping along the south coast.

If at the start of my trip here I thought Turkey was a great motorhoming / wildcamping / get-away-from-the-madness destination, then all of that has been reconfirmed for me and I can with a lot of certainty say Turkey is one of the best destinations to explore in a motorhome.

The scenery can be quite simply, incredible.

Sunrise on Demre beach

Wildcamping is allowed, even encouraged in Turkey and water is readily available. On the spot I’m now – Mavikent Beach – there is even a toilet. And it’s all free. My solar setup has proved it’s worth and I am essentially living off grid, all the time now.

I also as of late now see more foreign campers and this weekend alone I met explorers from Switzerland, France and the Netherlands whereas before I hardly saw any foreigners. And we all swop notes on great places to stop at, or provide spare parts or tools where needed – what a great community the motorhomers are!

Mavikent Beach

Olli is doing well and even had his updated Rabies shot here in Turkey, and he is loving the freedom of our walks here. He’s still getting used to all the dogs running freely but they are quite respectful of “home” dogs and tend to keep clear.

Post walk nap

I’ve now extended the legality of my stay in Turkey by getting a foreigner ID card (Ikamet) and can stay for now till June – I’m keeping an eye on the season in Europe to see if they will open for the summer before I cross back over into Bulgaria, but I can always extend my stay in Turkey if I wanted to. One thing I know is, even if I leave, I will be back! Turkey is a very special country indeed.

If you are on instagram, I suggest you follow me as #rvnomading there – I now post photos almost daily there.

Back in Turkey

I’ve been in the UK for work and catching up with friends but I was missing my usual escape to warmer climates over the winter months.

Whilst the pandemic continued to impact everything in most countries, more strict lockdowns were being re-introduced in Spain and Portugal and I also got word of some motorhomers being chased away or had their vans graffitied in Portugal. It also seemed difficult to travel through France.

So… I drove to Turkey! It was not as long a drive as you might think. I broke it up with stops in Germany, Hungary (where I could park in the garden of friends), Serbia, Bulgaria and then Turkey. I got lucky with the weather and only had a little bit of snow in Germany and no ice / freezing in the daytime.

Some might say it’s irresponsible of me to be travelling during a pandemic. I can understand that. However I’m on my own (apart from Olli obviously!) in the motorhome and have minimal contact with others. You can travel responsibly and safely!

First stop in Edirne

It is so good to be back in Turkey! I’ve been before, and it’s so amazing to again immediately experience the warm hospitality of Turkey. And they love my new motorhome! I get lots of honking and thumbs up from those driving past and wherever I park people walking past tell me how nice my motorhome is!

And of course Olli is the star again, the locals find it very funny that he gets such a luxurious ride. The customs officer at the border though basically did a backflip out of the motorhome after stepping in to inspect it without knowing about Olli. Ha!

Wildcamping is allowed in Turkey and safe. I always ask locals when I’m stopping in a neighbourhood if it’s OK and in most cases they will not only say it is absolutely fine, they might offer you food or check on you in the morning!

I skipped Istanbul (and ideally avoiding cities during the pandemic) by routing down to a ferry crossing at Canakkale, which was interesting (from a how many cars can we squeeze on here perspective!) but well worth it.

Now I’m heading down the Izmir coast and ideally get to my friends Erik and Joke near Manavgat for Christmas. You can follow my journey at http://www.polarsteps.com/rvnomading if you want.

There is an evening and weekend curfew here and so for weekends I’m trying to stay in campsites. The evening curfew does mean the parking lots are much quieter than usual which makes for a great night’s sleep, but does take away a bit of that Turkey vibe. Oh well.

Overall, it’s just so nice to be back in Turkey – the plan is to stay here for at least 3 months.

Olli is making plenty of friends again.

I wish and yours a very merry Christmas and a much much better 2021.

Back in the UK for a bit

Germany kept offering more motorhome stopover gems and Koblenz did not dissapoint. The motorhome parking in this city is on the river, and you are spoilt for choice of walks and things to see. Koblenz is where the Moselle and Rhine rivers join and the river is actually very active, making for some interesting and entertaining sights as the boats come by.

I would most certainly like to come back to Koblenz!

After that Olli and I routed quickly through the Netherlands to catch the overnight ferry from Hook of Holland to Harwich, and we are now parked at the house of a friend’s relative in the remote riverside village of Waldringfield in Sufffolk. I’m required to do 14 days of self-isolation and it can’t be much easier than doing it here!

Olli is familiar with the garden and surroudings here and I can tell he’s enjoying it despite the heavy rains to date which stopped for a while today allowing for a fantastic spell of sun.

Seems we did some good mileage in 2020 despite the pandemic, if Google is to be believed.

Anyway – the plan is to stay for a bit and ideally escape to the warmer weather of South Portugal before the winter really kicks in, provided there is not another lockdown!

Keep safe.

East to West

I’ve been very lucky in being able to travel around Eastern Europe as far as the Black Sea this season, but before I head to Portugal for the winter I have to go to the UK for two months.

Not the most ideal time to be going considering the state of the pandemic but nonetheless, it has to happen. I have a perfect, very remote spot there to isolate for the required two weeks.

The routing there takes us from Budapest through Austria to the south of Germany, as I will do a quick stop my motorhome dealer in Mannheim for a repair to my driver door handle.

Yesterday Olli and I left a Budapest that was clearly switching over to a rapidly approaching winter and en route I could not believe how cold it suddenly became! At one point it was six degrees and raining, whilst only two weeks ago we were enjoying upper 30’s!.. Time to dig out the winter coat in the garage, clearly.

On this routing we stopped at a car park site listed on one of the apps I use (search for sites) and it’s perfect. Effectively €1.50 for the night, and real close to one of the best city parks I’ve ever seen.

It offers endless paths to enjoy with lots of local dog walkers, all in spectacular scenery. It’s incredibly hard to believe you’re in one of Europe’s big cities.

We had a really good night’s sleep and only 4 hours from Mannheim, where we will go back to a camperstop there we used before. I have to say, Germany knows how to treat their motorhome visitors!

Studentenstadt Park and ride, Munich

Exploring Romania, Bulgaria and the Black Sea Coast

After my (shorter, thanks Covid) summer holiday in Hungary this year I ventured out to Plovdiv in Bulgaria where I had some paperwork to do. I decided to route via Romania and explore a bit off the beaten track.

My route followed the Serbian border and I went to a camp at a lake in the South West corner of Romania near the town of Hunedoara. The camping is right on the lake and was spectacular.

From there I routed south of Bucharest and initially tried a crossing into Bulgaria that Google suggested, but that was shut. I had to reroute and cross at Calafat. The roads were narrow and slow going, with some interesting traffic, but it was relaxed and easy.


Once in Bulgaria I headed straight for Plovdiv and I was so deligthed to hear about a new camper stop that opened there. It’s about time! Here’s a video I did about it:

Then it was time to explore the Black Sea Coast. My friend Vera who lives in Bulgaria now gave me a ton of wildcamping and campsite recommendations to explore and so off we went.

The first stop was on a cliff edge with amazing views of the ocean, where plenty of others were also wild camping. An absolutely super stop – Dyuni beach, south of Sozopol.

Just look at this sunset view!

From there I headed up further north and found a super little municipal campsite just below Topola, in a quiet resort and fishing village. Again, with spectacular views, and at €15/night it was well worth it.

It really is a super little town and offers superb scenes almost anywhere you walk.

Olli and I are staying here for now till this weekend and then we’ll explore the Romanian side of this coastal route a bit.

Overall, I’m so impressed by the Black Sea Coast – I really had no idea what to expect but I did not expect the scenery to be so great. We’re also very lucky with the weather – averaging 30 degrees in the day and cooler evenings.

I will certainly come back to this part of the world, and if you’ve not been, I highly recommend it.

Tesa Autolevelling for my motorhome

I’ve always been very keen to get an auto-levelling system installed in my motorhome but I’ve been put off by the high cost and weight of the default hydraulic systems.

I saw an electric solution developed in Italy called Tesa and contacted a few UK dealers about this, but they were all quite booked up with appointments. As I was driving through Italy on my way to Hungary I tried my luck and contacted Tesa in Italy, who immediately put me in touch with a dealer near Milan called Carrozzeria DI.VI.CAR.

They were excellent – in the video I mention them again but if you ever need this system installed and you can do it in Italy, go to DiVi Car, you will not regret it. You can stay there the night before (as indeed some other people where doing) and Leonardo, the owner, will give you excellent advice overall on your motorhome’s suspension and more! I actually ended up getting rear air suspension put in as well which I can now control from the driver’s seat, and it makes for an incredible difference in the quality of the ride, not to mention the safety aspect.

They have power, water and drainage facilities there including chem toilets and really could not be more helpful. Mirko will reply to your email inquiry and speaks good English.

Overall I’m really happy with the system – it’s lightweight, bother-free and works really well, and the end result of having your motorhome on a levelling system is just incredible. It’s so stable!

You can contact DiVi car on info@carrozzeriadivicar.it or visit tesalist.eu/en for possible other locations.

Via Switzerland to north Italy

After Holland I routed via Switzerland to get to just north of Milan in Italy, where I was going to get an electric auto-levelling system installed.

My good friends Bryan, Sheila and their dog Ziggy have a house in Grimentz, Switzerland and so I routed to pass near them and we met up in the village of Sierre for a quick breakfast. It was super to see them again.

We took a pic of the dogs but not of us!

I found an incredible municipal overnight stop in the village before which offered a spectacular 360 view that was priceless.

Whilst it was fantastic to be back on the road again, I did encounter an issue with my new compressor fridge. Essentially, I did not tie down the thinner gas line and with the vibration of the driving, it snapped.

I can recall smelling quite a distinct smell and it must have been the freon escaping from the system. This means I was going to loose the frozen seabass and other goodies in my freezer! I gave Bryan and Sheila two of the seabass and tried saving the other food. I called ahead to the Italian dealer that was going to do the auto levelling for me and he put me in touch with a Vitifrigo technician that was near them. (Luckily, the fridge is an Italian brand!)

I managed to find him after a few very tight turns in neighbourboods I’m sure I was not supposed to drive in. He promptly re-attached the gas line and refilled the compressor with gas right there on the side of the road! All sorted.

Then I went on to the auto levelling installer – but about this I’ll write in the next post.

Wonderful Gouda, Holland

We’re back on the road again! With the travel restrictions finally being lifted, Olli and I left from Harwich in the UK late last night on the overnight ferry to Hook of Holland in the Netherlands.

I like coming on that route as it’s close to Suffolk where I’m usually based when I’m in the UK, and Hook of Holland is just generally nicer than the Calais scene. With my South African background I also get to enjoy The Netherlands a little bit more, as I can understand and converse with the locals (albeit a bit slower than they might like) and read the road signs and shop names.

A year ago I’ve discovered a superb parking place in the heart of Gouda, the Dutch city famous for the cheese by the same name. I enjoyed it a lot so I’m back, and this time will stay a day or two, just enjoying the freedom of being out and about and taking in the sights of the town…not to mention the local food, drinks and extras (and obviously cheese, already bought some!).

Face masks now becoming a fashion item it seems
We took the same photo a year ago

The city really is very beautiful with amazing architecture everywhere and a beet relaxed atmosphere, and it’s superb for cycling, obviously being Dutch and all.

If you’re ever in the area with your motorhome, park at Klein Amerika parking, it’s €8/day and there are also electric hookups if you need them. The location is super, right in the heart of town, easy to walk around.

Switching to a more efficient fridge for the motorhome.

The default fridge/freezer in most motorhomes is a 3 way one that can use either gas/lpg, 12v (whilst driving) or mains 240v electricity. It is however in most cases an absorption fridge, meaning it does not have a compressor and pretty much makes no noise.

However, it’s not very efficient, and can consume a lot of power – which was exactly the case with the fridge that came with my 2019 Burstner motorhome, it was a Dometic model and whilst pretty good and quite suitable for occasional use, it was not suitable for full-time, off-grid living. It demanded 180w pretty much all the time and would really eat into my lithium batteries overnight.

So, it had to go! I’ve had this project on the cards now for some time but finally got round to it with the help of a local carpenter and now I have this slim Vitifrigo fridge/freezer that has a 12v compressor, and consumes less than 50w when it’s actually running, which is only when it needs to top up the cold air again.

It’s slighly narrower than the previous fridge but a lot taller, and the compressor itself is seperate. I therefore lost the drawer space underneath the previous fridge and had to make the cupboard above a bit smaller but all in it looks great.

We cut a hole underneath the fridge to allow the hot air from the compressor to cirulate out.
The old absorption fridge, now sold!

Initially I wired it up to what I thought would be sufficient power but the distance in the wiring from the batteries, combined with the wiring not being thick enough, meant the compressor could not get enough power. This took some figuring out but I re-wired it to a temporary piggy-back off the TV/sat system’s power whilst I have arriving soon proper, thick and long wiring that I will put in direct from the batteries to the compressor.

When I did the research on this some motorhome owners we warning me about compressor noise and being a nuisance in a motorhome … so I was a bit worried about this. However these fridges are specifically made for boats and motorhomes and the gentle little “purrr” that it makes only when the compressor runs, hardly bothers me. It even has a “night mode” button that will make it run even less infrequently (and hence quieter) but thus far I’ve had no need to use that.

I can immediately see the improvement in power consumption – whilst initially it drew a of power, now that the fridge has cooled down it maintains it with very little power. So much so I reckon my batteries will hardly drop below 80% overnight, I will be testing this all soon and see if that’s the case!

The motorhome is currently just on solar/lithium power and I can see when the compressor kicks in, it demands around 50w max, which my Victron system happily matches with solar:

So far, I can absolutely recommend making this change if you’re struggling with keeping your power hungry absorption fridge happy whilst wild camping.